Letter to the Editor, Monday October 15, 2001, published in The Round Up (New Mexico State University) Opinion, p. A 11.

"Clarifying misguided sweatshop claims"

I am writing to express my concern over the online article "Pistol Pete and Sweatshop Apparel in the New Mexico State Bookstore," published in the Qct. 8 Round Up written by David Boje. While Mr. Boje says he has spent a considerable amount of time investigating monitoring practices, it is clear that he has not spent time reading the widely available material on the Fair Labor Association. The article is misleading and unfortunately contains a number of false statements.

First, Mr. Boje is misinformed about the living wage issue with respect to both the FLA and the Worker Rights Consortium (WRC) of which he speaks so highly. Neither the FLA nor the WRC currently has a living wage provision as a requirement. The FLA has taken the lead obtaining information which will contribute to a sensible discussion about wage levels. See, for instance, the Department of Labor study on wage levels requested by the FLA and posted on our Web site www.fairlabor.org. The FLA remains actively interested in this vital issue. In the meantime, the FLA requires employers to pay the local minimum wage or the prevailing wage, whichever is higher. This may fall short of ideal but when fully enforced will be an enormous improvement for hundreds of thousands of workers.

Second, Mr. Boje misrepresents FLA's comprehensive monitoring system. He writes that the FLA allows consulting and accounting firms paid by the corporate manufacturers to monitor facilities -a completely erroneous statement. He goes L to use the colorful but false description independent monitors as “foreigner in suits" who are mistaken for "corporate staff."

 

The FLA currently has approved nine monitoring organizations for FLA-accreditation -none of which are consulting or accounting firms. They range from non-profit organizations to labor standards monitoring firms.

FLA-accredited monitors are most definitely not "foreigners in suits." They must have demonstrated capacity to monitor in the local environment, language and culture, and are accredited only in countries where they can do so -such as COVERCO, a non-profit that is accredited in Guatemala, and Phulki, a non-profit (accredited in Bangladesh.

Mr. Boje's false representations of FLA’s monitoring system and FLA’s accredited monitors are not only wrong, but also insulting to the many dedicated labor and  human rights non-governmental organizations that work with us.

 

Third, perhaps the root of Mr. Boje's false statements about FLA-accredited monitors stems from his lack of understanding about the FLA’s comprehensive system of monitoring. He refers to FLA’s approach as "touring" some, not all factories, in pre-announced visits, once a year or less.

Even the most cursory review of FLA’s Monitoring Guidance and Compliance Benchmarks (a1so on the Web site) would make clear that a factory inspection is intensive and complex - hardly a tour. All factories are subject to internal inspection by companies that contract for production and 30 percent of these are externally monitored to verify - or disprove - the findings from internal, inspections.

The FLA system also includes a third a party complaint mechanism to allow individuals to bring concerns directly to the FLA and to ensure follow-up on these concerns. The FLA system requires remediation where non-compliance is found.

All external inspections are unannounced, except in extraordinary circumstances based on a decision of the independent monitor, reviewed by the FLA. The participating company has no role in this decision. And the FLA makes the final decision on where independent external monitors will go.

The FLA requires a long-term commitment to address patterns of non-compliance. Anything short of such a long-term strategy is bound to be a fleeting inquiry into labor conditions, not a programmatic approach to changing them.

Finally, while Mr. Boje says he has been investigating this matter for the past two years, he clearly did not take the time to "investigate” or merely even read about the FLA’s university licensee program before he wrote about it. The FLA specifically requires all university affiliates to have their licensees join the FLA. If there is an NMSU licensee that has not indicated their intention to join, the University is committed to terminate that licensee.

We welcome ongoing discussions fu about independent monitoring and different approaches to managing factory conditions and the lives of workers. We only ask that the discussions are well informed and that the information presented is accurate.  

SAM BROWN EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR FAIR LABOR ASSOCIATION

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BOJE'S ORIGINAL ROUND UP ARTICLE