Are Sweatshops Misogynistic Revenge?

The Misogynistic Marriage of Women and Transnational Corporate Supply Chains

David M. Boje

January 8, 2001

http://business.nmsu.edu/~dboje (then press Sweatshops)

Introduction to Misogyny - My thesis is that global supply chains are misogynistic trade, part of a misogynistic conspiracy. Misogyny reflects the hateful attitudes of men towards women, to legitimate their punishment in late modern capitalism of global supply chains. There is a misogynistic marriage between punishing young women and male-dominated transnational corporate supply chains running from the male CEOs of Wal-Mart, Nike, Reebok, Gap and other billion dollar marketeers to the female labor forces in sweatshops of Asia, Latin America, and right here in New Mexico and Texas. Each corporation tries to explain why it was not as misogynistic as the others. I think there is a good deal of racism and sexism in the corporate supply chains.  In the sweatshops where corporations subcontract, young women are vulnerable, almost childlike and subservient females doing the work, and being punished I guess for their past transgressions against the male species. In the advertising young women are the sex objects selling the sweaty products with a transparent chauvinistic misogynistic bravado. Misogyny is an attitude legitimated in Greek mythology.

Figure One: Pandora lets out the Evil Influence on the Unsuspecting and Innocent Male Please Contact Stephanie Law  at ShadowScapes http://www.shadowscapes.com.who has graciously allowed me to use her wondrous artwork

Woman is the wrath of Zeus,
a gift given in place of fire -
cruel counter-gift! For she
burns a man with cares and
withers him up and brings old
age on youth too soon
(Women in the Greek World - Greek Anthology 9.165.1-4 ). 

What is a Sweatshop? A sweatshop is a workplace where workers are subject to (Adapted from S11):

Are sweatshops misogynistic?  When advertising is so much about the equality and empowerment of women, consumers are seduced to overlook the misogynist reality of sweatshops while at the same time being conditioned to accept the women's fate. I think the misogyny is the whole relationship between rich and powerful billion dollar transorganizational corporations, their subcontracting sweatshops, subservient women, and the conditioning of consumers to accept the status quo is important for us to look at.

    The marriage between young women in sweatshops and their transnational corporate supply chain partners is patriarchcal. Corporate males are scared what would happen if Pandora escaped from the sweatshop. On the one hand there is the sexual commodification of women to sell the products to women, while denying their sisters' enslavement in sweatshops around the world. Either way women's bodies are sexually commodities, "sweated" for mega profits while subservient workers receive pennies. A perfect misogynistic male fantasy that legitimates the kinds of male aggression towards women that is so prevalent in sweatshops. The fear is what would Pandora do if she escaped?

    When women say "no" to transnational corporate sweatshop supply chain employment and to their torment, their voices can not be heard above the spectacle of corporate advertising about empowered women and CEO speeches about the effectiveness of their codes of conduct and monitoring efforts.  Don't you marvel at how the male CEO is rescuing the sweaty female from a life of prostitution and starvation by employing her in his sweatshop? It is like the myth about rape, "she wanted it."

    Today, I wish to address the roots of this misogyny and a number of recurring motifs of patriarchal hegemony in the treatment of women in sweatshops and economic systems of oppression, suppression, and testocracy.


What is a Sweatshop?

What is a Sweatshop? The name, sweatshop, goes back to the late 1800s, and refers to a subcontracting system called "sweating." The idea is to "sweat" as much profit as possible out of each worker. Once a thriving tradition at the turn of the century, sweatshops saw their numbers dwindle in the face of relentless encroachment by labor organization and social legislation. Today, supply chain middlemen still earn their profits from the margin between the amount they received for a sub contract and the amount they pay workers. "Sweating" means paying the least wages for the most hours.

The US General Accounting Office defines a sweatshop as a business that regularly violates wage, child labor, health and/or safety laws. There are other definitions. Some include young adults who work in sweatshops, not just in the third world, but in major metropolitan cities in late capitalist economies. 

 "Investigators for U.S. labor and human-rights groups estimate that Asia and Latin America have thousands of sweatshops, which do everything from force employees to work 16-hour days to cheat them out of already meager wages, that make products for U.S. and European companies. ``It would be extremely generous to say that even 10% of [Western companies charged with abuses] have done anything meaningful about labor conditions,'' says S. Prakash Sethi, a Baruch College business professor who helped set up a monitoring system for Mattel at its dozen factories in China, Indonesia, Mexico, and elsewhere. Abuses may actually be proliferating" (Bernstein, 2000: 52).

Sweatshops is not just a problem in Asia and Latin America. The U.S. Department of Labor estimates that there are over 7000 sweatshops in the U.S.

Sweatshops in New Mexico 

Luis de Rosa was a former governor of New Mexico. He arrived in Santa Fe during 1637. He constantly clashed with the friars in the area. The governor ruled with an extreme authority that bordered on tyranny.  Rosa discovered the means used by previous governors for exploiting the Indians for profit and implemented these same tools.  He went to the pueblos demanding that the Indians weave blankets and other textiles which were to be delivered to him. In Santa Fe, he built a sweatshop and forced Christian Pueblos, unconverted Apache, and Ute captives under the sentence of servitude to work in these shops (Spanish Period of Sweatshops in New Mexico). 

Time Line

 

The Electronic Age of Sweatshops


Sweatshops in the U.S.

What did Karl Marx (1867), Adam Smith (1776), and Frederick Taylor (1911) have in common? 

ANSWER - They agreed that there are viable ethical alternatives to sweatshops that yield more productivity, profit, and net workers higher wages.  This does not mean there are not misogynistic. 

Did Adam Smith  favor sweatshops? Concerning the issue of wage rates, Smith (1776) in the  Wealth of Nations, saw the choice about paying each worker a "living wage" was clear, economic and moral:

A man must always live by his work, and his wages must at least be sufficient to maintain him. They must even upon most occasions be somewhat more; otherwise it would be impossible for him to bring up a family, and the race of such workmen could not last beyond the first generation (Smith, 1776, CHAPTER VIII Of the Wages of Labor). 

Adam Smith, among others, contended that interests of self-centered interests of merchants and manufacturers ran counter to the general welfare of society.  Smith advocated local accountability, moral reasoning, and a limit to bigness of business. Smith did favor the landowners over the merchants and manufacturers.

The proprietor of land is necessarily a citizen of the particular country in which his estate lies.  The proprietor of stock is properly a citizen of the world, and is not necessarily attached to any particular country (WN, 2: 848).

Smith argued for the primacy of agrarian capitalism over industrial capitalism.

What did Frederick Taylor Think of Sweatshops? What was revolutionary about Taylor's scientific management, was the observation that rest and refreshment are necessary to quality and sustained work. Any profit gained by overwork and snatching time for mealtimes and rest breaks and from paying the least possible bare subsistence wage and over-work in unhealthy and unpleasant situations was meager compared to the output of the high productivity enterprise. In short, both Taylor and Marx held out solutions to sweatshops' "slow sacrifice of humanity" (Marx, 1867: 244).

For example, going back to Taylor (1911), his innovation in pay schemes was to introduce the idea of differential piece-rate systems. In his series of experiments he demonstrated that workers when performing a carefully calibrated and planned task, would increase their effort when wages increased by 60 per cent (p. 74). In short, raising quotas and extending the working day, were found to be less productive alternatives than ensuring "prosperity for the employee, coupled with prosperity for the employer" the key to his compensation philosophy.

For Taylor, the solution to feudalistic sweatshop factories was to convince employee and employer, that through scientific experimentation, work conditions and work processes could be redesigned so that workers toiled few hours, with more rest breaks, and at higher pay, while the firm enjoyed the fruits of sharp increases in production. It is our proposal to test Taylor's option in the apparel industry. That is to move from what is called "extreme Taylorism" managing work processes with central control and high division of labor, to what Taylor had originally described, a system of work which is productive for employers and prosperous for employees.

Taylor (1911: 14-18) argued that it is possible to have prosperity for both owners and workers and the diminution of poverty and the alleviation of human suffering. We believe this is an attainable objective for the Nike corporation, its subcontractors, and global workforce. Taylor concludes, "the writer has great sympathy with those who are over-worked, but on the whole a greater sympathy for those who are under paid" (p. 18). This is the gist of our attempt to prove that living wage payment and healthy working conditions combined with scientific work processes makes economic sense.

What did Marx say about Sweatshops? For Marx, piece-wage was a special form of time-wage. "In time-wages the labor is measured by its immediate duration, in piece-wages by the quantity of products in which the labor has embodied itself during a given time" (1867: 553). And piece-wages, from his point of view, afforded the "source of reductions of wages and capitalistic cheating" of workers (p. 553). That is, with piece-wages, the incentive is for the capitalist to parasitically "sub-let" labor by using the services of middlemen (subcontractors). "In England this system is characteristically called the "Sweating system."

On the one hand piece-wage allows the capitalist to make a contract for so much per piece with the head laborer--in manufactures with the chief of some group, in mines with the extract of the coal, in the factory with the actual machine-worker--at a price for which the head laborer himself undertakes the enlisting and payment of his assistant workpeople (p. 554).

To Marx, it is in the personal interest of the subcontractor using piece-wage systems to "strain his labor-power as intensely as possible" by lengthening the working-day. And this is exactly what we have witnessed in apparel manufacture: without the external control of government or the global enterprise's policies and codes, subcontractors use piece-wage and extend the working day, as well as the number of days worked each month. In Marx's day, the "Children's Employment Commission: and other agencies intervened to change working and employment practices.

Piece-wage is the main pay system in today's apparel subcontract factory. Marx hypothesized that piece-wage is paid such that it becomes the average wage, thereby negating any incentive for independence, self-control, or liberty. "Piece-work has, therefore, a tendency, while raising the individual wages above the average, to lower this average itself" for the workforce. In practice, the quotas in the apparel industry are adjusted to keep the piece-wage to a bare minimum and working conditions such as rest periods and subcontractors avoid training in more efficient production methods, unless external controls are enforced. The assumption of the subcontractor is that since the alternative to work is starvation or more rigorous demands of agriculture, those workers have ample incentive to produce. This is defined here, as feudalistic sweatshop practice. We would like to conduct research that would implement and test experiments in alternative pay schemes.

 


 

Is the Sweatshop Misogynistic? 

The supply chain running from First World mega corporations to Third World sweatshops is thoroughly misogynistic. Supply chains see women as possessions, dumb and subservient, and more efficient and productive that way. These women, we are told, need a good dose of corporate discipline to make them better global citizens. It is OK for U.S. companies, including Wal-Mart, Toys 'R; Us, Gap, Nike, and Reebok to subcontract with sweatshops in Asia and Latin America as long as they don't get caught. There most be a camouflage of plausible denial. Most just claim their good are not made in sweatshops. 

Story 1 - Wal-Mart and Liu Zhang

David Glass is President & CEO of Wal-Mart. Wal-Mart was Named  "Sweatshop Retailer of the Year on June 19, 2000 by the Maquila Solidarity Network, hosting the first annual Canadian Sweatshop Awards in Toronto, Ontario. 

In 1992 Wal-Mart minted its Code of Conduct. With the Kathie Lee Gifford sweatshop scandal of 1997 Wal-Mart demanded its subcontractors sign a code of basic labor standards. The scandal brought in Clinton and the Apparel Partnership spectacle. This led to the formation of the Fair Labor Association by Kathie Lee, the White House and corporations such as Nike and the Gap in 1998. The action shifted from self-policing codes to corporate controlled policing of those codes by consultants (Global Alliance), auditors (PWC), and trade associations (FLA). Anything to avoid the independent monitoring (e.g. WRC). 

This first story (summarized from Bernstein, 2000) is about a male sweatshop worker, caught up in this misogynistic world of sweatshops in China. Liu Zhang decided to take a feminized job at the Chun Si Enterprise Handbag Factory in Zhongshan in southern China to get a permit to keep from being arrested as a vagrant. The factory is owned by Chun Kwan, a Macau businessman.  This factory makes those Kathie Lee Gifford handbags sold to the Wal-Mart. Though she initially issued a press release denying that Wal-Mart had any relationship with Chun Si.  Liu is 32 years old a former farmer and construction worker. He needs a temporary residence permit to avoid being locked up by the policy in a special detention center.  

 

Liu and 60 other workers marched to the local labor office to protest Chun Si. 

THE COVER UP - Creating a Phony Factory. 

Story 2 - Wal-Mart in Other Locations

 

Story 3 - Nike and the Sweatshop Supply Chain

Ms. Lap Nguyen was forced out of her Nike factory job in Vietnam following her interview with the ESPN program that was televised. She was also interviewed in the 1996 60 Minutes expose on Nike in Vietnam.  The point is that being interviewed can have disciplinary results.   (Source NikeWatch Campaign of Australia). 

Time Line for Lap Nguyen and Nike

For complete time line of events See Nike In The News; For items relevant to Nike's Stock Prices, see Nike stock stories. See year by year Nike chronology.

1995 - October -  Nguyen Thi Lap starts working for Sam Yang (Korean owned) sneaker factory in Ku Chi, Vietnam. Her employee number is 11204.  March, 1996 she was promoted to section (team) leader of sewing line number 15. 

1996 - March 31 - The headline story in The Vietnam Worker newspaper on March 31, 1996 proclaimed, "Foreign Technician Strikes 15 Vietnamese Workers." The same newspaper, on April 1, 1996, proclaimed: At Sam Yang Company, Cu Chi District, Ho Chi Minh City , Korean Technical Employee Strikes Many Vietnamese Female Workers. It went on to say that immediately after the incident took place, 970 workers on strike to protest the mistreatment of their fellow workers (See Vietnam Labor Watch Report).

1996 - October 17 - CBS News 48 Hours transcript, October 17, 1996. CBS News. (c) MCMXCVI, CBS, Inc. Transcript of Roberta Baskins on site visit to Nike in Vietnam   This was the first interview with Nguyen Thi Lap a team leader in Nike's Sam Yang (Korean owned) sneaker factory in Ku Chi, Vietnam. 

  • Nguyen Thi Lap's Her basic wage, even as a sewing team leader, still doesn't amount to the minimum wage, $42 a month for working six days a week.  Lap puts in more overtime than the annual Vietnam legal limit of 200 hours. 
  • Lap " and 14 other team leaders were singled out and punished by their Korean supervisor, Madame Baeck, seen here sitting at a table with the Nike shoe she used to hit the women. It was in retaliation for some poor sewing. " Two were later sent to the hospital (Nguyen, Vietnam Labor Watch Report March 29, 1997). Madame Baeck was convicted, but was allowed to leave the country after the incident, despite conviction (source). 

1997, March 29 Vietnam Labor Watch Report is released that includes study of the Sam Yang factory March 29, 1997, after businessman Thuyen Nguyen returned from 16-day Fact-Finding Tour of Vietnam Factories in Vietnam.

1998 - April 2, ESPN's "Outside the Lines" ran an hour-long show on Nike and Reebok sweatshop abuses in Vietnam (Sweatshop Watch). This was based on ESPN's visit to Vietnam factories in February, 1998 (See Globe Project, Vietnam). 

  • In February, 1998, ESPN interviewed Nguyen Thi Lap, a senior worker with an exemplary history at Nike's Samyang plant in Ku Chi "When I went to the interview" says Lap (in 2000 ESPN Interview aired in December), " the Korean manager kept suggesting to me that as an employee of the company I always had to speak well for the company."
  • In February and March, 1998 Lap worked 113 hours of overtime (200 is legal limit). 
  • Lap was demoted several times after the April, 1998 interviews with ESPN aired.  When she fell ill, she says she was denied medical leave, eventually forced to quit her job, and then diagnosed with tuberculosis.  Lap is currently unemployed. 

1998 - May 12 - Phil Knight spoke May 12th,1998  to the National Press Club Luncheon. 

  • One month after the ESPN report aired, A California class action suit was filed (and dropped in 1999), and the Ernst and Young audit was front page news (they were dropped and Price Waterhouse Coopers now does the audits). So, Phil Knight, CEO of Nike announced major reforms. 
  • Phil Knight said: "One columnist said, 'Nike represents not only everything that's wrong with sports, but everything that's wrong with the world.'  So I figured that I'd just come out and let you journalists have a look at the great Satan up close and personal" (May, 1998). 

2000 - Thuyen Nguyen's interview with Nguyen Thi Lap (a second copy is on the Clean Clothes Campaign Web site, and what happened to Lap). Thuyen Nguyen is a Vietnamese-American business man who has traveled to Vietnam to verify working conditions first hand.  

2000- Chairman Phil Knight withdrew a $30 million contribution to the University of Oregon, which is Knight's alma matter. It is one of 45 universities that have joined Worker's Right Consortium (WRC), a student-backed anti-sweatshop group (See New York Times,  " Sweatshop King: Nike Exec Reneges On $30 Million Pledge" by Steven Greenhouse, April 25, 2000). See also Knight, P. H. 2000, 'Statement from Nike Founder & CEO Philip H. Knight Regarding the University of Oregon', Nike's web
site , Portland. 

2000- December - ESPN's Monthly Outside the Lines 10th Anniversary show which aired in December, 2000. This was their 10th Anniversary show. (See Globe Project, Vietnam). 

We could also talk about Reebok and Workers Fired for Speaking to the Press- 

 

Story 4 - Sweatshops and El Paso 

 

Additional References

Basinger, Julianne  (2000) "Economists take college presidents to task for joining anti-sweatshop groups." The Chronicle of Higher Education; Washington; Sep 29;  Volume:  47 Issue:  5, Page: A39. (200 Academic sign letter protesting their university presidents signing up for either FLA or WRC, arguing that basic academic research is needed and consultation with university faculty experts.

Bernstein, Aaron  with Michael Shari in Jakarta, and Elisabeth Malkin " A World of Sweatshops" Business Week, New York; November 6, 2000, Iss. 3706; Industrial/technology edition; pg. 52, 84.  

Boje, D. M. 1998e How Critical Theory and Critical Pedagogy can Unmask Nike's Labor Practices presented to the Critical Theory pre-conference of the Academy of Management meetings, San Diego, CA, August 8.

Boje, D. M. 1998f Nike, Greek Goddess of Victory or Cruelty? Women's Stories of Asian Factory Life Journal of Organizational Change Management. Vol. 11(6): 461-480. There is an interesting story behind this one. 

Boje, David M. and 45 Academic Scholars (2000) " Global Manufacturing and Taylorism Practices of Nike Corporation and its Subcontractors" Drafted September 16, 2000 and submitted to Nike Corporation to obtain permission to enter samples of factories (no money is requested). 

Dexter, Robert and Aaron Bernstein (2000) ""A Life of Fines and Beatings." Business Week. October 2, 2000.

Hsiao, Andrew (2000)  Standing up to the swoosh  The Village Voice; New York; Oct 10, 2000; Volume:  45 Issue:  40, Page:  41-43 (Article on James Keady).

Leatherman, Courtney (2001) "Union organizers propose code of university conduct." The Chronicle of Higher Education; Washington; Dec 1, 2000;  Volume: 47 Issue: 14: A16. 

Street, Scott (2001) "Colleges criticize conditions in factories that produce clothing with their logos." The Chronicle of Higher Education; Washington; Oct 20, Volume:  47 Issue:  8, Page:  A41.

Anti-Sweatshop Group Finds Abuses at Korean Factory That
  Produced College Apparel

Van Der Werf, Martin (2001) "Anti-Sweatshop Groups Find It Difficult to Turn Campus Idealism into Real Change. The Chronicle of Higher Education. January 5, p. A39.

 

Chronicle subscribers can read this article on the Web at this address:
http://chronicle.com/daily/2001/01/2001012601n.htm